top of page

The Alchemist's Color Codex

In my experience, there are two types of natural dyers; the happy dyer with little regard to measurements and the scientific dyers with precise measurements and calculations. I readily admit that I am both of these people in a mad alchemist's body. In either case a basic understanding of the differences between dyes and stains is essential along with an understanding of the materials you are working with. 

About Natural Dyes, Stains, & Pigments.

Natural Dyes

​​​

  • Are chemically bonded to the material you are dyeing by a binding agent called a mordant.

    • Resist fading in sunlight.

    • Resist wearing away with friction.

  • Altering pH only shifts color tone but NOT dramatic shifts in color.

    • Red to orange vs red to green

Stains

​

  • Are NOT chemically bonded to the material you are dyeing by a mordant, even if it is present in the bath.

    • Will fade in sunlight.

    • Will wear away with friction.

  • Is changed by pH even after drying.

  • The most unstable coloring agents are

    • Anthocyanins (reds)

    • Chlorophyll (greens)

  • You will see lots of stains presented as dye on the internet.

Pigments

 

More information soon

Why we should care about this difference: Sometimes I see stains presented as dyes in social media posts.  As we try to move away from polluting man-made dyes (anillin dyes) to natural sources, improper techniques and misinformation mislead both crafters and the public into thinking natural dyes are not viable because they fade, wash out, or change color, are hard to work with or their colors are dull and muted. Many of these issues occur because stains were confused with a dye. It is difficult to innovate in a field with so many common misconceptions.

 

Textile and garment production is, and always has been, one of the largest polluters. The holy grail of color right now is a low-water dyeing technique from quickly-renewable natural sources.

​

Stains have their place. If you are looking for a color that is temporary for artwork, working with kids, or looking for food-safe colors then many (but NOT all) stains work well.

​

Pigments also have their place particularly in natural watercolors, oil paints, temperas, and many other mediums.

BONUS: Science!

Plants themselves are not dyes or stains, rather the chemical they contain are.

All dyes are classified in 2 primary categories:

  • Chemical group (defines the main chemical compound in the dye)

    • Multiple dye chemicals may be present in a single dye source.

      • For examples: the different colors obtained from Shagbark Hickory Hulls

  • Dye class (indicates how the dye is applied to the textiles)

    • Multiple dyeing methods may be used on a single chemical group.

      • For example: cold water dyeing & hot water dyeing are useful for the Shagbark Hickory Hulls & yield different results.

Screenshot 2025-10-12 215953.png

Citation for Above: Boutrup, Joy & Catharine Ellis, The Art and Science of Natural Dyes: Principles, Experiments, and Results, ISBN#978-0-7643-5633-9

Anthraquinoids vs Anthocyanins

Red vs Red

Anthraquinoids are another family of red pigments.

Produces red, orange, and yellow pigments found in plants, insects, lichens, and some fungi.

Light-fast

Wash-fast

Less susceptible to pH shifts, producing tonal differences.

Dye

Anthocyanins (also called anthocyans) are flavonoid pigments, found in berries and other red foods.

Produces pink, red, orange, violet and blue in flowers, fruits, and leaves.

Not light-fast

Not wash-fast

Susceptible to pH shifts even after drying

Stain

Natural Sources of Dye

  • Magenta

    • Peppered Rock Tripe​

  • Pinks

    • Shagbark Hickory Hulls - Fresh

    • Sappanwood 

    • Common Reed Seed Heads - Fresh/purple

    • Peppered Rock Tripe​

    • Brazilwool - ENDANGERED

  • Reds

    • Cochineal - Dried or Extract

    • Sappanwood

    • Bloodroot - ENDANGERED

  • Oranges

    • Yellow Onion Peels​

    • Orange Marigold Petals

  • Yellows

    • Yellow Onion Skins​

    • Yellow Marigold Petals

    • Shagbark Hickory Hulls - Fresh

    • Osage Orange

    • Buckthorn Bark & Berries

    • Common Reed Seed Heads - Fresh/purple

    • Dyers Polypore

    • Weld

  • Greens

    • Buckthorn Berries - Fresh

    • Common Reed Seed Heads - Fresh/purple

  • Blues

    • Indigo - Fresh Leaves

    • Indigo - Vat

    • Woad 

    • Logwood 

    • Logwood Extract

    • Murex Snails - ENDANGERED

  • Purples

    • Logwood

    • Logwood Extract

    • Purple Gromwell (Murasaki) - ENDANGERED

    • Murex Snails - ENDANGERED

  • Purple/Brown​

    • Coast Redwood Cones/Sequoia Extract

    • Coast Redwood Cones - Dried

  • Browns

    • Eastern Black Walnut​ - Fresh

    • Eastern Black Walnut Extract

    • Coast Redwood Cones/Sequoia Extract

    • Coast Redwood Cones - Dried

  • Tans

    • Shagbark Hickory Hulls - Fresh

    • Poplar Bark

    • Butternut Bark

  • Gray

  • Blacks​​​

Natural Sources of Stain

  • Magenta

    • Poke Berries

  • Pinks

    • Dawn Redwood - Green Immature Cones​

    • Hibiscus Flowers

  • Reds

    • Beats​

  • Oranges

    • Turmeric​

  • Yellows

    • Saffron​

    • Camomile Flowers

  • Greens

    • Parsley​

  • Blues​​

    • Blueberries​

    • Blackberries

    • Blue Butterfly Pea Flowers

  • Purples

    • Cabbage

  • Tans

    • Dawn Redwood - Green Immature Cones​

  • Browns

    • Black Tea​

    • ​Coffee​

  • Gray

    • Hibiscus Flowers​

    • Blue Butterfly Pea Flowers​

  • Black​​

 

© 2035 by Liz Ives Powered and secured by Wix 

 

bottom of page